Paris to Biarritz Sept. 10

It was a long night of fitful plane sleeping and movie watching!  But we arrived safely.  Now it was time for a taxi to the Montparnasse Train Station to catch the train to Biarritz.  We are all a bit dazed but trying to find the taxi area when my Dave disappears but suddenly reappears with a lovely young man from Algiers who says he will take us to the station for 60 euros, much less expensive than anticipated.  Dave Shenton's eyes are now bugging out and he is stammering something about,"No, no we have to go outside!"  "It's O.K. Dave, it's only 60 euros, he'll take us right there." 

We pile us and all the luggage into his little grey car and off we go!  And it was like riding through a Paris made movie.  The Champs Elysees, Eiffel Tower, the Seine, even a glimpse of Notre Dame.  We should have paid him another 60 euros for a longer tour! 

Gare de Montparnasse is huge and intimidating.  There's nothing for it but to haul everything inside and find our gate.  There are people and shopping booths and announcements being made!  My Dave finds someone to help us interpret the arrival and departure signs.  "No, your gate won't show until 20 minutes before departure."  So, it's definitely time for coffee and there's got to be some French pastries here somewhere!  My Dave needs some cash so, I get out my envelope of euros and have Dave Shenton's eyes bugging out again - "There's got to be people watching us!"  (Dave S. has travelled extensively with his work to many potentially shady places.  He thinks we're nuts!)

The little coffee shop down the way proves to have wonderful coffee and pastries and atmosphere! - the Police Nationale surround a doorway on the other side of the hall!  Just step quietly past them to find our gate.

We settle in to our booth not really looking forward to another 5 hours of travel - we'd already been at this for 24 hours by the clock, somewhat less with time differences.  Dave Shenton has some rather ghastly and potentially lethal pictures of Dave and I sleeping!  He was ordered NOT to publish these.

It's 8:00 pm and we have finally arrived in Biarritz.  We kept looking at the map and thinking  - we can walk this - we're going to do 800 kms.  A taxi was ordered and it was a brilliant idea!  Biarritz has nary a flat street and not one direct route to anywhere!  The taxi driver brought us skillfully to our destination which was a lovely pension whose owner directed us to authentic Basque food for dinner.
A walk along the sea wall ended our long day and sleep came easily!

One year ago today...

One year ago we started out from Calgary to join the thousands of others who had walked the Camino de Santiago - Camino Frances from St. Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela - 800 kms across the northern regions of Spain. 

Dave had been thinking about this walk for many years and it had popped up in many contexts including the planning of our walk around the Isle of Wight in 2005.  Then it popped up again when our friend Dave Shenton loaned us a book his wife Cheryl had given him, The Way is Made by Walking, by Arthur Paul Boers.  It seemed to be a confirmation not to be ignored! 

After much talking, planning, organizing, and procrastinating and a blatant push from our daughter, "Have you booked your tickets yet!?", a plan came together.  Spreadsheets were prepared - in true accountant fashion - and an agent had been contacted to handle my part of the walk since I would only walk the last 110 kms.  This decision made it possible for both of us to receive a Compostela - a certificate of completion.  It also meant I'd be in a rental car following along each day and meeting the two Dave's in the afternoon.

There were some goodbyes at the airport, Dave Shenton's wife was not joining us, and off we went on the first leg of the trip to Montreal and from there overnight to Paris.

Shades of things to come:

The "little brother" and his phone camera at work!

Molinaseca to Ponferrada to Sarria to road to Portomarin to Lugo to Sarria by bus! Oct.10

I am not doing another thing until I recount the events of the day!  Besides, no dinner until 8:45.  Oh, lovely, I've just discovered the Renfe train is right across the street!

It started out like any other day on the Camino - up at 6:30 to shower and make sure all the finishing touches have been put on the packing since I go to Sarria today to start walking tomorrow.  Tensor wrap  Dave's foot to see if that will help settle it down.  One last goodbye to Gayle, Greg, Sue and the Dave's.  Off they go!

Really hungry but I want to stop in Ponferrada to take pictures which I didn't have time for yesterday - that's another story!  Thinking I can probably catch them for breakfast at the café by the Castillo and take them the map I got which might help them get out of the city without frustration!  It's an uneventful drive in as I recognize where I'm going - park the car not far from the Castillo - hmmm, if I don't come back before 10:00 will I get another ticket?  Up the hill to take pictures.  Ponferrada's old town is stunning!  beautiful plazas and statues.  Every roundabout has something of interest, either fountain, statue or sculpture.  On the way back down, sure enough I run into pilgrims who say the group is in the café.  Bacon and eggs - not easily found here!

After a quick visit to the church which is actually open - many of them aren't this early in the morning - I head for the car.  Sure enough - Spanish parking control is on the ball!  I read the ticket - 90 euros!  Ok, what does this other note say - great, I can pay 7 euros if I do an anulacion.  Go to the machine on the street and a nice woman helps me.  How brilliant is this!  Just put the number in on the ticket and choose which amount you are supposed to pay.  (Impark needs to take a lesson in this!) But, of course, I don't have 7 euros in coins.  Down to the corner to a café with a lovely older couple at the counter who light up when they finally understand I need change.  I ask for coffee to take away - virtually unheard of here - why would you want to take it away when you can sit and relax and chat with friends!? - plastico, she asks - not the best choice for a hot drink but vale, O.K.

Finally, out on the road.  Thankfully, now there are many actual Camino signs for the drivers so I am able to leave the city with only one turn around and one gas station check to make sure I am not heading for the A6 again!

The pilgrims have been frustrated and annoyed with the bicycles on the Camino.  Try relaxing behind a motorhome going through a little town where the road goes right through the town square, café tables and all!  Not long before they turn off and we can all get on our way.

The road is good quality but impossibly winding and uphill into Cebreiro and I am in another fantasy land as the mist is still rising out of the valley at 1:30 in the afternoon!  It looks like Brigadoon, my Mother's favourite musical.  O.K. Wendy, it's getting late you better stop taking pictures and get on to Sarria!

I arrive at the hotel and check in without trouble and then I start with my problema.  My prayers have not been answered for an English speaking desk clerk, but we get along enough for me to understand the bus schedule from Santiago.  There is a fast bus at 5:00 or another at 6:30 or there are still later times.  It's now 2:41 and it's another two hours to Santiago by car on the Camino - I am not doing the Autopista!  So, there is nothing for it, get in the car and hope for the best.

For many days, there have been road signs to Lugo.  Every time I encounter one, I think, I don't want to go to Lugo!  I am hurtling up the road and just barely miss the sign to Portomarin.  But, there is another sign for Lugo.  Pull over to figure out how far to Lugo since I now know it's only 30 minutes by bus to Sarria.  Imaps says 35 minutes.  Well, I'm not going to get to Santiago on time anyway and the desk clerk said there was Europcar in Lugo.  Maybe this is a sign.  "Stay calm, be brave, watch for the signs!"

We have been in some big cities here but as I approach Lugo there are expletives coming out of my mouth along with, maybe this wasn't such a good idea after all!  One turn around to find the city centre signs and I discover something else!  I am officially in Galicia now and the Spanish on the signs is just slightly different.  Not as different as Basque, which is completely unintelligible, but just enough to wonder is that something else than the city centre.  I go some distance past what must be the old city and pull over to try to reach Europcar roadside assistance.  No luck - good thing it wasn't really an emergency!  Find the number for the Europcar office and after much explaining we decide I should just come to the office - how long - half an hour maybe, knowing I could be much longer - the track record in these cities has not been good!  Put the address in the maps and low and behold, its five minutes away!  The Camino angels are starting to come through!

I arrive at the office and when Sonia looks at the paperwork she understands, at last, what my request has been.  Yes, this is possible to leave the car here but... it is another holiday this weekend in all of Spain and Sonia won't be able to watch the car.  There is no possible way I can still get to Santiago so, plan B.  Is there an underground parking garage here?  Dave and I will just have to do the bus thing back to Lugo.  Yes, and she thinks it is only 3 euros a day this week - must be because of the hauleeday.  She will call to find out for sure.  A conversation with Marcos, reveals that I can leave the car at the Seminario Parking for 20 euros for the week!  It was going to be 10 euros a day in Santiago!  A map is produced and she draws the way.  Looks very straight forward.  Yea, sure!

Off towards the old city.  Lugo has an old city surrounded by a huge stone wall which is surrounded by the biggest roundabout you've ever seen - a ronda - basically a ring road.  Around the ronda to the spot where Sonia has indicated I do a turnaround.  Well, that does not work.  Around the ronda a second time - no sign of Seminario Parking.  Around the ronda again only, by now, it is 5:00, obviously rush hour in Lugo and the traffic is stopped with honking horns and the whole bit but... this is because a portion of the ronda is now closed!  Must be because of the hauleeday - they generally start Thursday night.  Fortunately, there is a young woman policia directing traffic and she draws me a new route to the garage.  Little do I know that the usual vendors stalls have already started to be set up and that the street approaching the garage is on a 45 degree angle up and that there is a @#$% pedestrian crossing right at the top of the hill and I am riding my clutch in second gear instead of first!  Either the transmission or the clutch is toast - we'll find out later.  I arrive at the top and drive into yet another unmarked plaza and get a last set of directions to the garage which is right behind me.  I pull into the entrance get out of the car - and ask at the kiosk for Marcos - si, senora take a ticket and bring it back here - planta 3.  No problem - 20 euros - we will pick up the car Oct. 20.

Put on the day pack and drag the suitcase to the bus station through a bunch of vendors stalls.  It is 6:26. The ticket I purchase for 3.60! says the bus leaves at 6:35.  Which gate - maybe 10, 11, 12 - the bus isn't here yet.  I take two minutes to sit on the bench and there it is - Lugo to Sarria!  A lovely young Frenchman puts my bag in the storage and soon we are off.  What a relief!  Oh, I have food in my day pack - grapes - at least I can pretend I'm drinking the 7:00 pm wine with the rest of them.  7:12 we are in Sarria!

I run into the young man again and can direct him to the monastery where he is staying from the map I got earlier.  It never ends!
My hotel is down at the end of a main street, not on the Camino, but a shortcut away.  The Hotel Roma has been here since 1930.  Very European and the restaurant for dinner was very traditional including the chef who looked like something out of Ratatouille who literally cut and prepared the ribs and steaks behind a glassed in enclosure.  A meal of a "broth" which was full of noodles and Celtic pork fat and rice with vegetables served in a huge casserole dish. 

The end of a day! 

Buen Camino!

Astorga Oct. 8

Another cloudless sunrise came over the little square which our Hostal faces and it is market day!  The trucks started arriving around 5:30 and now everyone is set up and there is the usual friendly banter between merchants and buyers.  They have been accompanied by church bells and the chiming of the hours from the Ayuntamiento!  Do any church bells sound in Calgary every day?  I will miss that for sure!

Last night will be a classic Camino story amongst our little pilgrim family!  Our friend, Dave Shenton, who started out walking but had to return home Sept. 19, is back to finish the walk with Dave.  There had been some uncertainty about his job and when he got back his branch was closed!  Dear Cheryl took on the Camino spirit by pointing out this is a gift of time.  So, we managed to keep it a secret until he arrived at the restaurant last night!  Such excitement!  Hilariously funny because Dave had to get up to get Dave S. at the train.  He made it look like he had gone to the bathroom.  I'm getting texts under the table from Dave S. wondering what's going on. Then a phone call I managed to get by the others.  Then a phone call from Dave D.; I'm back at the hotel because I got lost and never found the train station!  By this time, Greg keeps wondering if Dave D. is alright - should I go and check on him and I keep saying no, no he'll be fine.  But when I get up to take the phone call, I don't go in the direction of the bathroom which really worries the group.  I call Dave S. to say he'll have to walk.  When I come back to the table, Dave waits a little longer and then comes in sheepishly.  Not ten minutes later, Dave S. is leering at the group through the window and they are completely taken aback! It is great to have him back and a little relief for me as Dave will have someone to spur him along when I have to leave the group on Thursday.

My walking begins on Friday and I am both excited and nervous!  I was able to settle where the car will go in Santiago which was also a story as Mercedes, our hostess at the Casa Rural yesterday, phoned the number I had, well, thought I had, for the hotel.  No we have no reservation but we have room.  I got her to check that this was the hotel and no it was not!  Another number was found, yes we have your reservation, you park your car in the underground parking at Juan XXIII.  Oh, look at that, I'm parking at a garage named for a Pope!

Must go out now to get a few pictures and then meet the group "up the page", I'll explain later, for lunch. 

Buen Camino! 

Leon! Oct. 3 - 6

Having finally found Dave at the side of the road in Mansilla de las Mulas - such exotic names! - we settled the group at the bus station.  We have all decided after the horrendous experience getting into Burgos, that wheels are the way to go and gives us more rest time in Leon. 

I was very grateful to have Dave as map reader coming into another very large city!  The phone maps are great but the least little turn might not show up fast enough and suddenly we are two blocks past the right spot!

This hotel is definitely a splurge - right on Plaza Mayor and only steps from the Cathedral which is magnificent!  The sun catches all it's angles all day and at night it is completely lit and glows in the Plaza Regla.

We have managed to hit another festival!  San Froilan.  There are ceramics, art, and all manner of crafts for sale.  People are dressed in traditional costume and medieval costume.  The shopping kiosks set against the ancient buildings makes it look like we've stepped back in time!

Another splurge here was an actual restaurant meal - something other than the Pilgrim Menu del Dia was definitely needed - so, we found our way to a little place for a traditional dish called Bacalao.  It is a fish stew type of dish - usually cod - this version done in a huge clay pot which served the table.  An appetizer was white asparagus stuffed with crab!  White asparagus is everywhere - much fatter then regular with a sweeter taste.  It was another delightful evening!

Now I'm going to see if I can have one last look at the Cathedral - it being Sunday and all - and then meet Clare who will ride with me today to give her Achilles tendon one more day of rest. 

Oh my goodness! Oct. 4

The day began with, oh my goodness, it's 7:13! The day ended with, oh my goodness, the church bell is ringing midnight and I have no idea how to describe the concert we just listened to in the square right in front of the hotel!  Galician, Irish, North African Trad music!

More in the morning!

Santo Domingo de Calzada

I am in a beautiful little room in a small bed and breakfast hotel called El Molina de Floren in Santo Domingo de la Calzada.  The Sunday morning church bells have been giving me a wonderful chorus along with the brilliant sun coming in the window from a cloudless sky!  This Santo Domingo is home to the "chicken clock".  Look it up!

David is out on the Camino coming from Najera - a "short" day - only 20 Km. And again this morning we have had a the-Lord-is-with-you moment as he could not find his credencial, the little book for the sellos, stamps, we get as we go from place to place.  Finally, we remembered a visit to the bathroom last night in the restaurant which just happens to be owned by the owner of this place.  When I asked downstairs, yes, Floren has it at the restaurant, if you eat again there, he will bring it to your table!

We have a great list of similar experiences already so, I will have to go back to the beginning!  But first, I think there will be church again at 12 - there might even be a first communion service going on!

Buen Camino!