I am not doing another thing until I recount the events of the day! Besides, no dinner until 8:45. Oh, lovely, I've just discovered the Renfe train is right across the street!
It started out like any other day on the Camino - up at 6:30 to shower and make sure all the finishing touches have been put on the packing since I go to Sarria today to start walking tomorrow. Tensor wrap Dave's foot to see if that will help settle it down. One last goodbye to Gayle, Greg, Sue and the Dave's. Off they go!
Really hungry but I want to stop in Ponferrada to take pictures which I didn't have time for yesterday - that's another story! Thinking I can probably catch them for breakfast at the café by the Castillo and take them the map I got which might help them get out of the city without frustration! It's an uneventful drive in as I recognize where I'm going - park the car not far from the Castillo - hmmm, if I don't come back before 10:00 will I get another ticket? Up the hill to take pictures. Ponferrada's old town is stunning! beautiful plazas and statues. Every roundabout has something of interest, either fountain, statue or sculpture. On the way back down, sure enough I run into pilgrims who say the group is in the café. Bacon and eggs - not easily found here!
After a quick visit to the church which is actually open - many of them aren't this early in the morning - I head for the car. Sure enough - Spanish parking control is on the ball! I read the ticket - 90 euros! Ok, what does this other note say - great, I can pay 7 euros if I do an anulacion. Go to the machine on the street and a nice woman helps me. How brilliant is this! Just put the number in on the ticket and choose which amount you are supposed to pay. (Impark needs to take a lesson in this!) But, of course, I don't have 7 euros in coins. Down to the corner to a café with a lovely older couple at the counter who light up when they finally understand I need change. I ask for coffee to take away - virtually unheard of here - why would you want to take it away when you can sit and relax and chat with friends!? - plastico, she asks - not the best choice for a hot drink but vale, O.K.
Finally, out on the road. Thankfully, now there are many actual Camino signs for the drivers so I am able to leave the city with only one turn around and one gas station check to make sure I am not heading for the A6 again!
The pilgrims have been frustrated and annoyed with the bicycles on the Camino. Try relaxing behind a motorhome going through a little town where the road goes right through the town square, café tables and all! Not long before they turn off and we can all get on our way.
The road is good quality but impossibly winding and uphill into Cebreiro and I am in another fantasy land as the mist is still rising out of the valley at 1:30 in the afternoon! It looks like Brigadoon, my Mother's favourite musical. O.K. Wendy, it's getting late you better stop taking pictures and get on to Sarria!
I arrive at the hotel and check in without trouble and then I start with my problema. My prayers have not been answered for an English speaking desk clerk, but we get along enough for me to understand the bus schedule from Santiago. There is a fast bus at 5:00 or another at 6:30 or there are still later times. It's now 2:41 and it's another two hours to Santiago by car on the Camino - I am not doing the Autopista! So, there is nothing for it, get in the car and hope for the best.
For many days, there have been road signs to Lugo. Every time I encounter one, I think, I don't want to go to Lugo! I am hurtling up the road and just barely miss the sign to Portomarin. But, there is another sign for Lugo. Pull over to figure out how far to Lugo since I now know it's only 30 minutes by bus to Sarria. Imaps says 35 minutes. Well, I'm not going to get to Santiago on time anyway and the desk clerk said there was Europcar in Lugo. Maybe this is a sign. "Stay calm, be brave, watch for the signs!"
We have been in some big cities here but as I approach Lugo there are expletives coming out of my mouth along with, maybe this wasn't such a good idea after all! One turn around to find the city centre signs and I discover something else! I am officially in Galicia now and the Spanish on the signs is just slightly different. Not as different as Basque, which is completely unintelligible, but just enough to wonder is that something else than the city centre. I go some distance past what must be the old city and pull over to try to reach Europcar roadside assistance. No luck - good thing it wasn't really an emergency! Find the number for the Europcar office and after much explaining we decide I should just come to the office - how long - half an hour maybe, knowing I could be much longer - the track record in these cities has not been good! Put the address in the maps and low and behold, its five minutes away! The Camino angels are starting to come through!
I arrive at the office and when Sonia looks at the paperwork she understands, at last, what my request has been. Yes, this is possible to leave the car here but... it is another holiday this weekend in all of Spain and Sonia won't be able to watch the car. There is no possible way I can still get to Santiago so, plan B. Is there an underground parking garage here? Dave and I will just have to do the bus thing back to Lugo. Yes, and she thinks it is only 3 euros a day this week - must be because of the hauleeday. She will call to find out for sure. A conversation with Marcos, reveals that I can leave the car at the Seminario Parking for 20 euros for the week! It was going to be 10 euros a day in Santiago! A map is produced and she draws the way. Looks very straight forward. Yea, sure!
Off towards the old city. Lugo has an old city surrounded by a huge stone wall which is surrounded by the biggest roundabout you've ever seen - a ronda - basically a ring road. Around the ronda to the spot where Sonia has indicated I do a turnaround. Well, that does not work. Around the ronda a second time - no sign of Seminario Parking. Around the ronda again only, by now, it is 5:00, obviously rush hour in Lugo and the traffic is stopped with honking horns and the whole bit but... this is because a portion of the ronda is now closed! Must be because of the hauleeday - they generally start Thursday night. Fortunately, there is a young woman policia directing traffic and she draws me a new route to the garage. Little do I know that the usual vendors stalls have already started to be set up and that the street approaching the garage is on a 45 degree angle up and that there is a @#$% pedestrian crossing right at the top of the hill and I am riding my clutch in second gear instead of first! Either the transmission or the clutch is toast - we'll find out later. I arrive at the top and drive into yet another unmarked plaza and get a last set of directions to the garage which is right behind me. I pull into the entrance get out of the car - and ask at the kiosk for Marcos - si, senora take a ticket and bring it back here - planta 3. No problem - 20 euros - we will pick up the car Oct. 20.
Put on the day pack and drag the suitcase to the bus station through a bunch of vendors stalls. It is 6:26. The ticket I purchase for 3.60! says the bus leaves at 6:35. Which gate - maybe 10, 11, 12 - the bus isn't here yet. I take two minutes to sit on the bench and there it is - Lugo to Sarria! A lovely young Frenchman puts my bag in the storage and soon we are off. What a relief! Oh, I have food in my day pack - grapes - at least I can pretend I'm drinking the 7:00 pm wine with the rest of them. 7:12 we are in Sarria!
I run into the young man again and can direct him to the monastery where he is staying from the map I got earlier. It never ends!
My hotel is down at the end of a main street, not on the Camino, but a shortcut away. The Hotel Roma has been here since 1930. Very European and the restaurant for dinner was very traditional including the chef who looked like something out of Ratatouille who literally cut and prepared the ribs and steaks behind a glassed in enclosure. A meal of a "broth" which was full of noodles and Celtic pork fat and rice with vegetables served in a huge casserole dish.
The end of a day!
Buen Camino!
Thanks for the updates. The experience sounds amazing.
ReplyDeleteMary-Ann Stushnoff